Kihope Riding Centre, Upper HunterCredit: KRC Scone
Saddle up for a ride at Kihope Riding Centre on the outskirts of Scone in the Upper Hunter.
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The Upper Hunter in New South Wales, around 300km northwest of Sydney, is famous for breeding excellent thoroughbred horses, but it also produces outstanding wine, cheese and olive oil. The region’s green hills and heritage towns, including Denman, Muswellbrook and Scone, are great to explore by car.
Follow the compact wine trail
A handful of wineries circle Denman, all within a 20-minute drive of the small country town. Located near the confluence of the Goulburn River with the Hunter River, Two Rivers Wines offers wine tastings and antipasto platters to enjoy on the verandah overlooking the vines. Small Forest is run by Japan’s first female winemaker, Atsuko Radcliffe, while the vineyard plantings at James Estate Wines date back to 1968. Hollydene Estate grows classic valley and emerging grape varieties such as tempranillo and is home to the excellent Vines Restaurant.
Hollydene Estate, Upper Hunter Credit: Hollydene Estate and April Josie Photography
Hollydene Estate, near Denman in the Upper Hunter region.
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Hollydene Estate, Upper Hunter Credit: Hollydene Estate and April Josie Photography
Hollydene Estate, near Denman in the Upper Hunter region.
Corker Trail, Barrington Coast NSW Credit: Catherine Boyd and Destination Barrington Coast
Hiking in Barrington Tops National Park.
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Corker Trail, Barrington Coast NSW Credit: Catherine Boyd and Destination Barrington Coast
Hiking in Barrington Tops National Park.
Eat, drink, play and stay
The region is a rich agricultural area and is justifiably proud of its regional producers. In the largest town, Muswellbrook, watch the cheesemaking process at Hunter Belle Cheese, sample the range of olive oils at Pukara Estate and then stop for excellent coffee at Double Picc.
On the main street in the charming village of Scone, 30km north of Muswellbrook, The Cottage is a delightful restaurant serving house dry-aged and smoked meats. Just down the road, the Belmore Hotel is a classic pub with accommodation in a beautiful restored building from 1866. While you’re in Scone, make like a local and jump in the saddle for a country trail ride with Kihope Riding Centre on the outskirts of town.
For a luxurious retreat 3km from Scone, Strathearn Park Lodge has private rooms each with spa bath and a fireplace, as well as views across the valley. And for a rural escape near Denman, Baerami Pines Retreat is nestled within a native cypress forest on the edge of Wollemi National Park. This beautiful converted church has three bedrooms and a courtyard garden with outdoor pavilion — perfect for keeping an eye out for kangaroos and wombats.
Nearby, the Sandy Hollow Tourist Park is set within eight hectares of gardens and natural bush, and features cottages, motel units and a campground.
Explore the local national parks
Beyond the remarkable beauty of Upper Hunter farm country, the area is a gateway to several national parks, including Barrington Tops National Park. And if you follow the Hunter River to its upper reaches at Lake Glenbawn, an hour’s drive northeast of Muswellbrook, you’ll hopefully reel in a bass fish or two. The lake is also popular for watersports, so head out on a stand-up paddleboard or join the flotilla of motorboats taking waterskiers and wakeboarders for a spin. In the rainforest and snow gums of Towarri National Park you’ll spot wallabies and black cockatoos and can laze in the natural cool bath of Washpools waterhole.
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Corowa Whisky & Chocolate, CorowaCredit: Destination NSW
Couple enjoying a visit to Corowa Whisky & Chocolate, Corowa.
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Feast on the riches of one of Australia’s most important food bowls on a road trip through the Murray, named after the mighty river that flows through this southwest area of New South Wales. Float down the river on a historic paddlesteamer wine cruise, stop by farm gates to sample incredible fresh produce, and dine at chic restaurants and bars in this unique culinary playground.
Take the back roads for gourmet treats
Head off the beaten path along The Backroads Trail, a 250km driving route that passes through the small pastoral towns of Barham, Moama, Mathoura and Deniliquin on the upper reaches of the Murray River. Sink your teeth into fresh olives, avocados, free-range pork, honey and citrus fruit from farm gates along its loops and trails, and taste the region’s wines at vineyards such as Restdown Wines. While you’re at this winery, venture out along the Restdown Wetland Walk to encounter Aboriginal cooking hearths and an old sheep camp.
Cruise along to The Old School Winery & Meadery in Womboota to pick up wine, pottery and honey mead. Or seek out Ivy Joyce in Barham to indulge in a warm space, offering local produce from farms for a truly paddock to plate experience in the heart of Murray River country. For more snacks and meaty fare such as British-style pork pies and sausages, head to Pacdon Park’s factory shop in Moama.
You can work up an appetite as you build your own itinerary on the theme of food, paddocks and produce, and find suggested routes and maps to Murray River farm gates, at the Echuca Moama Visitor Centre.
Wine and dine along the river
Embark on a wine tour by water in Moama, where the first steamboats made their way up the Murray in 1853. Take a Murray River Paddlesteamers Wharf to Winery Cruise from the town to Morrisons Riverview Winery for a leisurely lunch. Or drive along the river, stopping in at Three Black Sheep for risotto and woodfired pizzas, and tasting crisp dry whites and full-flavoured reds at St Anne’s Vineyards, where you can nibble on a cheese platter overlooking a scenic lake.
Head east along the riverside roads to rest and recharge in the town of Tocumwal, known for its riverside beaches, golf courses, glider flying and iconic Big Murray Cod statue. Start the following day with a solid foundation of breakfast pizza (topped with bacon, eggs and a hash brown) at The Old Bank and indulge in a scoop of ice-cream or sorbet from Tocumwal Ice Creamery – flavours include rocky road, green apple or macadamia. If you’re in town on a Saturday, pick up honey, fruit, vegetables, olive oil, dressings and other condiments made by local producers at the Tocumwal Foreshore Markets.
Continue your odyssey along the river to Corowa, the birthplace of Australian Federation. Immerse in the town’s rich turn-of-the-20th-century colonial heritage as you make your way to the former 1920s flour mill housing Corowa Distilling Co. Here you can book a whisky tasting and behind-the-scenes tour and buy locally made chocolates and sweets from sister shop Junee Licorice and Chocolate Factory. Work off an indulgent afternoon with a walk along the river before settling into the stylish Circa 1936 hotel, which is housed in an Art Deco former bank on the main street of Corowa.
Celebrate regional ingredients in Albury
From Corowa, follow the Riverina Highway eastward to the city of Albury, a food, wine and culture hub. Taste how seasonality and locality are expressed at The Proprietor, a former butcher shop turned cafe offering brunch treats such as fruit toast with Beechworth honey and whipped ricotta, and banana waffles with Gundowring vanilla ice-cream. Or try the all-day breakfast offering at Mr Benedict, from cheesy bacon waffle with popcorn chicken to one of its signature eggs benedicts, including one with cider-braised ham hock.
At The River Deck restaurant, local ingredients are celebrated alongside stunning river views, and dishes may include chicken Caesar salad with Milawa eggs or beef brisket braised in coffee by Albury roaster The Brothers Cup. At tiny and elegant Bistro Selle, complement warm Gooramadda olives with a buttery Australian chardonnay and fresh market fish. Yardbird offers a bold-flavoured menu featuring dishes like scorched Albacore tuna, along with meats grilled in a Spanish woodfired oven.
In between meals, stroll along the Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk and take in the contemporary artworks by Aboriginal artists that line the Wagirra Trail. Meander through the Murray Art Museum Albury’s contemporary photographic collection, Aboriginal art and works by renowned Australian artist Sir Russell Drysdale. Afterwards, order lunch or dinner at the museum’s excellent Canvas Eatery – try the saltbush lamb rump or one of their Neapolitan-style pizzas.
The Old School Winery & Meadery, Womboota Credit: Destination NSW
Couple taste tasting mead at The Old School Winery & Meadery, Womboota
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The Old School Winery & Meadery, Womboota Credit: Destination NSW
Couple taste tasting mead at The Old School Winery & Meadery, Womboota
Morrison's Riverview Winery and Restaurant, Moama Credit: Destination NSW
Food and wine available from Morrison's Riverview Winery and Restaurant, Moama.
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Morrison's Riverview Winery and Restaurant, Moama Credit: Destination NSW
Food and wine available from Morrison's Riverview Winery and Restaurant, Moama.
Corowa Whisky & Chocolate, Corowa Credit: Destination NSW
Corowa Whisky & Chocolate located in a 1920âs old flour mill in Corowa.
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Corowa Whisky & Chocolate, Corowa Credit: Destination NSW
Corowa Whisky & Chocolate located in a 1920âs old flour mill in Corowa.
Canvas Eatery, Albury Credit: Destination NSW
Food and wine available at Canvas Eatery in Albury.
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Canvas Eatery, Albury Credit: Destination NSW
Food and wine available at Canvas Eatery in Albury.