Word of Mouth Wines, CanobolasCredit: Destination NSW
Wine barrel at Word of Mouth Wines, Canobolas.
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Organic. Biodynamic. Vegan-friendly. Minimal intervention. For some of New South Wales’s most innovative winemakers, it’s not just about what you put into the wine, but what you leave out. From Orange to the Southern Highlands to the Hunter Valley wine regions, meet the winemakers making waves with their natural wines.
Sam Renzaglia of Renzaglia Wines, O’Connell Valley
You don’t often find a Rosenberg’s goanna on a wine label, but there’s a reason that Sam Renzaglia’s Di Renzo range of wines features wildlife on its labels. At Renzaglia Wines in the O’Connell Valley near Bathurst, a three-hour drive west of Sydney the focus is on restoring the local ecosystem. That influences how Renzaglia treats not just his vines — minimising herbicides and pesticides, and weeding by hand — but also how he treats the rest of the property, introducing nesting boxes and planting more trees to support native birds and koalas. Renzaglia’s award-winning wines, which are made without fining and filtering, include chardonnay, shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and merlot.
Peter Gibson at Word of Mouth Wines, Canobolas
A welcoming party awaits visitors to Word of Mouth Wines, in Canobolas just outside the vibrant country town of Orange: George the alpaca, Snuggles the sheep and the friendly dogs Fluffy and Artemis are all waiting to say hello. So is winemaker Peter Gibson, who has spent two decades refining his ‘slow wines’ here, which are vegan-friendly and made without insecticides, herbicides and chemical fertilisers. Peter grows a range of unusual varietals in his small vineyard, a 3.5-hour drive west of Sydney, including petit manseng, grüner veltliner and albariño. You can also pick up some fine local produce at the cellar door, including olive oil, honey and hazelnuts.
Mark Davidson of Tamburlaine Organic Wines, Hunter Valley
At Tamburlaine Organic Wines, in the Hunter Valley, a two-hour drive north of Sydney, winemaker Mark Davidson continues to evolve the techniques he uses to create award-winning semillons, chardonnays and shiraz. As well as avoiding pesticides, herbicides and fungicides, Davidson focuses on minimum-impact farming, recycling water, composting unused grapes and stems, and using solar power. Tamburlaine’s wines are now vegan-friendly, thanks to the introduction of vegetable-based fining agents, and several sulphur-free wines are available. If you’d like to learn more about Davidson’s innovative approach, you can book a behind-the-scenes tour.
Word of Mouth Wines, Canobolas Credit: Destination NSW
Word of Mouth cellar door, Canobolas.
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Word of Mouth Wines, Canobolas Credit: Destination NSW
Word of Mouth cellar door, Canobolas.
Harkham Wines, Hunter Valley Credit: Harkham Wineries
A selection of Harkham Wines from the Hunter Valley.
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Harkham Wines, Hunter Valley Credit: Harkham Wineries
A selection of Harkham Wines from the Hunter Valley.
Richie Harkham of Harkham Wines, Hunter Valley
When Richie Harkham describes his wines as “pure grape juice”, he’s talking about what he leaves out of the winemaking process: there are no chemicals, no preservatives, no additives, fining or filtration. At this boutique Hunter Valley winery, which makes a maximum of 20,000 bottles a year, workers hand-pick all the grapes used to make its acclaimed semillon, chardonnay, rosé and shiraz. That’s not the only thing that sets Harkham Wines apart: the winery operates according to kosher guidelines, and has an on-site restaurant and accommodation for those looking for a longer stay.
Jared Dixon of Jilly Wine Co, Clunes
Subtropical Byron Bay, an eight-hour drive or an hour-long flight north of Sydney, is the last place you might expect to find a winery. A 40-minute drive inland, however, in the village of Clunes, winemaker Jared Dixon of Jilly Wine Co is hard at work. Jared sources his grapes from the cooler New England region, just a few hours away, where settlers first grew vines in the early 19th century. The crisp highland air suits varieties such as nebbiolo, gewurztraminer and chardonnay, and Dixon uses natural yeasts and avoids fining and additives, apart from a small amount of sulphur. The Clunes cellar door is open only by appointment, but you can pick up a bottle or two at the Clunes Store & Cellars on Main Street in town.
Tony Zafirakos at Aristotelis Ke Anthoula, Pambula
On the picturesque Sapphire Coast, Aristotelis Ke Anthoula is all about keeping it simple. Inspired by the techniques used in the Greek village where his father Dad, Aristotelis and Mum, Anthoula grew up, winemaker Tony Zafirakos and his partner Maddison Park-Neilson use wild fermentation, and harvests and processes their fruit by hand. Their unfiltered, unfined, sulphur-free wines include unusual drops such as Pash & Pop, an orange wine that’s made with greco and zibibbo grapes fermented on skins, and Lucky No.5, a blend of the season’s varieties.
Sam Leyshon of Mallaluka, Yass
Some winemakers like to leave their mark on the wines they produce. Sam Leyshon takes the opposite approach. Now at the helm of his family winery, Mallaluka, in Yass, a three-hour drive southwest of Sydney or an hour north of Canberra, Leyshon (formerly of fellow Canberra District winery Clonakilla) aims to minimise his fingerprint on his wines, using low-impact techniques such as open-vat fermentation, basket pressing and minimal additives. In addition to cool-climate favourites such as riesling and shiraz, his range includes lesser-known whites such as sangiovese, fiano, vermentino and aligoté, a little-known Burgundy varietal. There is no cellar door, but you can buy Mallaluka wines at Canberra Wine + Spirits Merchants and Ainslie Cellars in Canberra.
Ari's Natural Wines Co, Sutton Forest Credit: Ari's Natural Wines Company
Wines at Ari’s Natural Wine Co, Sutton Forest.
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Ari's Natural Wines Co, Sutton Forest Credit: Ari's Natural Wines Company
Wines at Ari’s Natural Wine Co, Sutton Forest.
Sunset, Yass River Credit: Destination NSW
Sun sets over the Yass River and the old railway bridge.
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Sunset, Yass River Credit: Destination NSW
Sun sets over the Yass River and the old railway bridge.
More Inspirational Stories
Corowa Whisky & Chocolate, CorowaCredit: Destination NSW
Couple enjoying a visit to Corowa Whisky & Chocolate, Corowa.
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Feast on the riches of one of Australia’s most important food bowls on a road trip through the Murray, named after the mighty river that flows through this southwest area of New South Wales. Float down the river on a historic paddlesteamer wine cruise, stop by farm gates to sample incredible fresh produce, and dine at chic restaurants and bars in this unique culinary playground.
Take the back roads for gourmet treats
Head off the beaten path along The Backroads Trail, a 250km driving route that passes through the small pastoral towns of Barham, Moama, Mathoura and Deniliquin on the upper reaches of the Murray River. Sink your teeth into fresh olives, avocados, free-range pork, honey and citrus fruit from farm gates along its loops and trails, and taste the region’s wines at vineyards such as Restdown Wines. While you’re at this winery, venture out along the Restdown Wetland Walk to encounter Aboriginal cooking hearths and an old sheep camp.
Cruise along to The Old School Winery & Meadery in Womboota to pick up wine, pottery and honey mead. Or seek out Ivy Joyce in Barham to indulge in a warm space, offering local produce from farms for a truly paddock to plate experience in the heart of Murray River country. For more snacks and meaty fare such as British-style pork pies and sausages, head to Pacdon Park’s factory shop in Moama.
You can work up an appetite as you build your own itinerary on the theme of food, paddocks and produce, and find suggested routes and maps to Murray River farm gates, at the Echuca Moama Visitor Centre.
Wine and dine along the river
Embark on a wine tour by water in Moama, where the first steamboats made their way up the Murray in 1853. Take a Murray River Paddlesteamers Wharf to Winery Cruise from the town to Morrisons Riverview Winery for a leisurely lunch. Or drive along the river, stopping in at Three Black Sheep for risotto and woodfired pizzas, and tasting crisp dry whites and full-flavoured reds at St Anne’s Vineyards, where you can nibble on a cheese platter overlooking a scenic lake.
Head east along the riverside roads to rest and recharge in the town of Tocumwal, known for its riverside beaches, golf courses, glider flying and iconic Big Murray Cod statue. Start the following day with a solid foundation of breakfast pizza (topped with bacon, eggs and a hash brown) at The Old Bank and indulge in a scoop of ice-cream or sorbet from Tocumwal Ice Creamery – flavours include rocky road, green apple or macadamia. If you’re in town on a Saturday, pick up honey, fruit, vegetables, olive oil, dressings and other condiments made by local producers at the Tocumwal Foreshore Markets.
Continue your odyssey along the river to Corowa, the birthplace of Australian Federation. Immerse in the town’s rich turn-of-the-20th-century colonial heritage as you make your way to the former 1920s flour mill housing Corowa Distilling Co. Here you can book a whisky tasting and behind-the-scenes tour and buy locally made chocolates and sweets from sister shop Junee Licorice and Chocolate Factory. Work off an indulgent afternoon with a walk along the river before settling into the stylish Circa 1936 hotel, which is housed in an Art Deco former bank on the main street of Corowa.
Celebrate regional ingredients in Albury
From Corowa, follow the Riverina Highway eastward to the city of Albury, a food, wine and culture hub. Taste how seasonality and locality are expressed at The Proprietor, a former butcher shop turned cafe offering brunch treats such as fruit toast with Beechworth honey and whipped ricotta, and banana waffles with Gundowring vanilla ice-cream. Or try the all-day breakfast offering at Mr Benedict, from cheesy bacon waffle with popcorn chicken to one of its signature eggs benedicts, including one with cider-braised ham hock.
At The River Deck restaurant, local ingredients are celebrated alongside stunning river views, and dishes may include chicken Caesar salad with Milawa eggs or beef brisket braised in coffee by Albury roaster The Brothers Cup. At tiny and elegant Bistro Selle, complement warm Gooramadda olives with a buttery Australian chardonnay and fresh market fish. Yardbird offers a bold-flavoured menu featuring dishes like scorched Albacore tuna, along with meats grilled in a Spanish woodfired oven.
In between meals, stroll along the Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk and take in the contemporary artworks by Aboriginal artists that line the Wagirra Trail. Meander through the Murray Art Museum Albury’s contemporary photographic collection, Aboriginal art and works by renowned Australian artist Sir Russell Drysdale. Afterwards, order lunch or dinner at the museum’s excellent Canvas Eatery – try the saltbush lamb rump or one of their Neapolitan-style pizzas.
The Old School Winery & Meadery, Womboota Credit: Destination NSW
Couple taste tasting mead at The Old School Winery & Meadery, Womboota
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The Old School Winery & Meadery, Womboota Credit: Destination NSW
Couple taste tasting mead at The Old School Winery & Meadery, Womboota
Morrison's Riverview Winery and Restaurant, Moama Credit: Destination NSW
Food and wine available from Morrison's Riverview Winery and Restaurant, Moama.
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Morrison's Riverview Winery and Restaurant, Moama Credit: Destination NSW
Food and wine available from Morrison's Riverview Winery and Restaurant, Moama.
Corowa Whisky & Chocolate, Corowa Credit: Destination NSW
Corowa Whisky & Chocolate located in a 1920âs old flour mill in Corowa.
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Corowa Whisky & Chocolate, Corowa Credit: Destination NSW
Corowa Whisky & Chocolate located in a 1920âs old flour mill in Corowa.
Canvas Eatery, Albury Credit: Destination NSW
Food and wine available at Canvas Eatery in Albury.
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Canvas Eatery, Albury Credit: Destination NSW
Food and wine available at Canvas Eatery in Albury.